آداب Aadaab! I'm back in South Asia and much to my sensory overwhelment (Shakespeare did it...don't judge me) it is as loud and colorful and smelly and sticky a place as I remember. There are notable differences from Nepal which I will talk more about later, but the feel is very similar.
I'm now happily situated in my permanent residence for the summer after changing sleeping arrangements five nights in a row. I'm in a comfortable flat in Lucknow with seven other American students, living the floor above our host mother. We live directly across from the Botanical Garden but as the guard insists every time we broach the entrance, the gardens are for "Morning walk only!"
There is no way for me to actually describe EVERY thought or experience I've had, but I will try to cover some highlights of the first week.
Delhi Orientation (or how I joined the Dharma Initiative)
When I first arrived in New Delhi, I was picked up at the airport by a driver along with two other AIIS students and taken to the Guest House. It was so much nicer than I expected! Air conditioning, wireless, toilet paper, and good food. My roommate was Lauren Dean, from Chicago who, though young, is a savvy traveler and has been to India (and Nepal!) before. She was a great rickshaw buddy and together we saw the Red Fort, Dilli Haat, and Humayan's Tomb. I also experienced the surprisingly clean and efficient Delhi metro which I highly recommend to travelers!
For two days we kept wondering why we did not hear from AIIS. Though the driver had picked us up, none of the employees at the guest house were with AIIS, nor did they know where our orientation was or when it started. None of us students had received this information, so, as is usual in India, our decision was to wait, be flexible, and not stress. On Sunday night a woman suddenly showed up at the house insisting we put our bags in the car and go. Dana was home, but both Lauren and I were out. He, thankfully, insisted on waiting for us before he left. The guest house employees were confused and a little annoyed because they had already prepared our dinner, which we were not allowed to stay and eat. When we were finally on the road, we went for a long car ride to the outskirts of Delhi, near the airport. We entered a compound with a big blue sign that said "IDSA, Institute for Defense Studies and Analyses." We drove past one or two Sikh guards with enormous machine guns and dour expressions. As we drove deeper into the compound, the walls got higher, the uniforms got drabber, and the guns bigger. Dana and I began looking at each other in concern, wondering where, exactly, this orientation was taking place. As we got out of the car in front of one of the barricaded buildings he said "I think we're being conscripted into the Dharma Initiative!" (That's a LOST reference, fyi) It really did feel that way, but upon checking into our rooms it felt like any other hotel, and the orientation happened in a nearby building that served as a conference center. It was fine, but it was strange to be IN Delhi and yet feel so isolated from the city.
At the orientation I met many students, most of whom would continue on to Jaipur to study Hindi. A few of us are in Lucknow studying Urdu.
School
The American Institute of Indian Studies has several language programs throughout India. At my particular location (Lucknow), students study Urdu and Persian (Farsi).
One aspect that has frustrated many people is the division of the school into two distinct groups. The CLS (Critical Language Study) students are funded by the State Department, who puts tight restrictions on the program, and provide them with many additional perks. Apparently this is the first year this has happened, but only CLS students were given the option of a home stay. The rest of us are in apartments or flats. Even their orientation was separate, and they study on the upper level of the school, while we, the ugly step-children, study downstairs. They are delivered to the school in big SUVs each morning, whereas I walk 10 minutes and arrive already soaked through my kameez. The students themselves are mostly younger and less experienced in Urdu than the AIIS students. They are super sweet and friendly and I think a little embarrassed of riches. It is not their choice, naturally, but rather the State Department's approach to exerting tight control over how the program is run.
Immersion is always an exhausting experience, and five hours a day of language has me ready to sprawl out on the tile floor and moan myself to sleep by lunch. My listening comprehension has turned out to be very poor, so after the first two weeks, they will move me down to a slightly lower level. It is not guaranteed that I will stay there, however. Apparently levels shift throughout the program. AIIS is flexible and tries to put students in groups of common ability. Still, it's a bit of a pride-swallow to go down from "intermediate" to "high novice." But if you expect to have your ego bolstered by foreign language study, you are always in for a big disappointment.
Being a novelty
The question is not how many seconds the stares will last, but how many minutes. In Kathmandu, there is a steady stream of international travelers in and out of the city, mostly trekkers on their way to the Himalayas. India, especially in the summer, does not see the same constant presence of westerners. I have had my picture taken more times than I can count in the past week. Sometimes covertly, sometimes blatantly. It's not that people in Delhi are so surprised to see white people roaming around, but tourists from other parts of India frequently end up in the same places as tourists from outside India, and thus we become a novel element of the experience.
Two people have actually asked for my photo. One group of young men half shouted, half laughed at me "Go home white girl!" Apart from this experience, I have not felt that anyone actually objects to my presence. Many westerners are uncomfortable or annoyed by this constant scrutiny. I chalk it up to curiosity and don't take offense. We look different. We are an element of an unknown culture. I come from a land they can't access, and that is fascinating. I can appreciate that. So if I see the phone camera pointed at me, I smile, to show I don't mind. It is hard to figure out when to pick your nose when you know you're constantly being watched, though.
Things I have to remember in India
Shawl Modesty is very important. Covering the shoulders, legs, chest, and even the head, all show respect for the standard of dress. A shawl is called "dupatta" and serves as an accessory, but also a covering.
Toilet Paper In India, water washes away all ills. It's used for cleaning, ritual purification, hygiene....and it is the only toilet paper that most Indians need. They find it strange that westerners would put paper down there and spread the mess around when a hand will wipe it all clean. All the same, this is the one major thing most westerners can't overcome, and we therefore always have to carry a roll of TP (which you CAN get) along with you.
Water It's the hot season! I sweat all day and hydrating safely can be a problem. Most homes have "reverse osmosis" water filters, which renders the water safe to drink. You just have to carry it with you. Sometimes bottles are refilled, or their labels forged, and sold at food and beverage stands.
Mosquito Repellent It's also monsoon season, and the insects are out in full force. I discovered upon filling my malaria pill prescription that the side effects (paranoia, night terrors, suicidal thoughts, depression, and memory loss) might not be worth the protection against a curable disease. Besides, the main thing you should do is prevent mosquito bites, which can also carry dengue fever and typhoid, for which there is no vaccination.
Doors lock on the inside AND outside Our housemate, Caroline, inadvertently locked my roommate Christina and I in the other day. Because the doors don't "latch" in the traditional way, there are bolts you can push in on both the inside on and outside of the doors. Without thinking, Caroline threw the latch on the outside of the door, effectively trapping me and Christina inside.
Touristy restaurants are NOT the safest places to eat Many tourists are lured by air conditioning and a clean floor, but, like other things in India, things are not always what they seem. In fact, touristy restaurants that don't get a constant flow of daily business can sometimes keep foods, like the traditional gravies, up to six months. Eating in a place where locals go everyday assures your food is fresh. I mean, who wants to eat curry from January?
Everything is up for negotiation Something I love about South Asia but that drives a lot of Americans crazy is that nothing is set in stone. Whether it's the cost of a rickshaw, the terms of your lease or the length of your stay, you aren't expected to just cave in and agree. Indians will argue almost anything, and expect others to do the same. I am good at bargaining because I never want anything that bad, neither do I care about keeping the shopkeeper happy. I'm surprised how many Americans purchase things because they feel ashamed to walk out of the shop. I do not have this compunction, and therefore get called back by shopkeepers who really want my business.
There is no way for me to actually describe EVERY thought or experience I've had, but I will try to cover some highlights of the first week.
Delhi Orientation (or how I joined the Dharma Initiative)
When I first arrived in New Delhi, I was picked up at the airport by a driver along with two other AIIS students and taken to the Guest House. It was so much nicer than I expected! Air conditioning, wireless, toilet paper, and good food. My roommate was Lauren Dean, from Chicago who, though young, is a savvy traveler and has been to India (and Nepal!) before. She was a great rickshaw buddy and together we saw the Red Fort, Dilli Haat, and Humayan's Tomb. I also experienced the surprisingly clean and efficient Delhi metro which I highly recommend to travelers!
For two days we kept wondering why we did not hear from AIIS. Though the driver had picked us up, none of the employees at the guest house were with AIIS, nor did they know where our orientation was or when it started. None of us students had received this information, so, as is usual in India, our decision was to wait, be flexible, and not stress. On Sunday night a woman suddenly showed up at the house insisting we put our bags in the car and go. Dana was home, but both Lauren and I were out. He, thankfully, insisted on waiting for us before he left. The guest house employees were confused and a little annoyed because they had already prepared our dinner, which we were not allowed to stay and eat. When we were finally on the road, we went for a long car ride to the outskirts of Delhi, near the airport. We entered a compound with a big blue sign that said "IDSA, Institute for Defense Studies and Analyses." We drove past one or two Sikh guards with enormous machine guns and dour expressions. As we drove deeper into the compound, the walls got higher, the uniforms got drabber, and the guns bigger. Dana and I began looking at each other in concern, wondering where, exactly, this orientation was taking place. As we got out of the car in front of one of the barricaded buildings he said "I think we're being conscripted into the Dharma Initiative!" (That's a LOST reference, fyi) It really did feel that way, but upon checking into our rooms it felt like any other hotel, and the orientation happened in a nearby building that served as a conference center. It was fine, but it was strange to be IN Delhi and yet feel so isolated from the city.
At the orientation I met many students, most of whom would continue on to Jaipur to study Hindi. A few of us are in Lucknow studying Urdu.
School
The American Institute of Indian Studies has several language programs throughout India. At my particular location (Lucknow), students study Urdu and Persian (Farsi).
One aspect that has frustrated many people is the division of the school into two distinct groups. The CLS (Critical Language Study) students are funded by the State Department, who puts tight restrictions on the program, and provide them with many additional perks. Apparently this is the first year this has happened, but only CLS students were given the option of a home stay. The rest of us are in apartments or flats. Even their orientation was separate, and they study on the upper level of the school, while we, the ugly step-children, study downstairs. They are delivered to the school in big SUVs each morning, whereas I walk 10 minutes and arrive already soaked through my kameez. The students themselves are mostly younger and less experienced in Urdu than the AIIS students. They are super sweet and friendly and I think a little embarrassed of riches. It is not their choice, naturally, but rather the State Department's approach to exerting tight control over how the program is run.
Immersion is always an exhausting experience, and five hours a day of language has me ready to sprawl out on the tile floor and moan myself to sleep by lunch. My listening comprehension has turned out to be very poor, so after the first two weeks, they will move me down to a slightly lower level. It is not guaranteed that I will stay there, however. Apparently levels shift throughout the program. AIIS is flexible and tries to put students in groups of common ability. Still, it's a bit of a pride-swallow to go down from "intermediate" to "high novice." But if you expect to have your ego bolstered by foreign language study, you are always in for a big disappointment.
Being a novelty
The question is not how many seconds the stares will last, but how many minutes. In Kathmandu, there is a steady stream of international travelers in and out of the city, mostly trekkers on their way to the Himalayas. India, especially in the summer, does not see the same constant presence of westerners. I have had my picture taken more times than I can count in the past week. Sometimes covertly, sometimes blatantly. It's not that people in Delhi are so surprised to see white people roaming around, but tourists from other parts of India frequently end up in the same places as tourists from outside India, and thus we become a novel element of the experience.
Two people have actually asked for my photo. One group of young men half shouted, half laughed at me "Go home white girl!" Apart from this experience, I have not felt that anyone actually objects to my presence. Many westerners are uncomfortable or annoyed by this constant scrutiny. I chalk it up to curiosity and don't take offense. We look different. We are an element of an unknown culture. I come from a land they can't access, and that is fascinating. I can appreciate that. So if I see the phone camera pointed at me, I smile, to show I don't mind. It is hard to figure out when to pick your nose when you know you're constantly being watched, though.
Things I have to remember in India
Shawl Modesty is very important. Covering the shoulders, legs, chest, and even the head, all show respect for the standard of dress. A shawl is called "dupatta" and serves as an accessory, but also a covering.
Toilet Paper In India, water washes away all ills. It's used for cleaning, ritual purification, hygiene....and it is the only toilet paper that most Indians need. They find it strange that westerners would put paper down there and spread the mess around when a hand will wipe it all clean. All the same, this is the one major thing most westerners can't overcome, and we therefore always have to carry a roll of TP (which you CAN get) along with you.
Water It's the hot season! I sweat all day and hydrating safely can be a problem. Most homes have "reverse osmosis" water filters, which renders the water safe to drink. You just have to carry it with you. Sometimes bottles are refilled, or their labels forged, and sold at food and beverage stands.
Mosquito Repellent It's also monsoon season, and the insects are out in full force. I discovered upon filling my malaria pill prescription that the side effects (paranoia, night terrors, suicidal thoughts, depression, and memory loss) might not be worth the protection against a curable disease. Besides, the main thing you should do is prevent mosquito bites, which can also carry dengue fever and typhoid, for which there is no vaccination.
Doors lock on the inside AND outside Our housemate, Caroline, inadvertently locked my roommate Christina and I in the other day. Because the doors don't "latch" in the traditional way, there are bolts you can push in on both the inside on and outside of the doors. Without thinking, Caroline threw the latch on the outside of the door, effectively trapping me and Christina inside.
Touristy restaurants are NOT the safest places to eat Many tourists are lured by air conditioning and a clean floor, but, like other things in India, things are not always what they seem. In fact, touristy restaurants that don't get a constant flow of daily business can sometimes keep foods, like the traditional gravies, up to six months. Eating in a place where locals go everyday assures your food is fresh. I mean, who wants to eat curry from January?
Everything is up for negotiation Something I love about South Asia but that drives a lot of Americans crazy is that nothing is set in stone. Whether it's the cost of a rickshaw, the terms of your lease or the length of your stay, you aren't expected to just cave in and agree. Indians will argue almost anything, and expect others to do the same. I am good at bargaining because I never want anything that bad, neither do I care about keeping the shopkeeper happy. I'm surprised how many Americans purchase things because they feel ashamed to walk out of the shop. I do not have this compunction, and therefore get called back by shopkeepers who really want my business.
" Delhi Orientation (or how I joined the Dharma Initiative) "
ReplyDeleteYou're a fan of LOST? Best Show I have seen in years in its Genre. Better watch out, Cause even during midnight in this country, We Hear WHISSPERRSSS all around, especially at places where there's no one around. [:)]
And for the talk about Negotiation, It is something like, We are Born With. You should watch Russell Peters video about Indian and Chinese Negotiation on youtube.
ReplyDeleteThis is one of your best post...
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing valuable information....
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